Category: Chocolate Tasting

Chocolate Pairings and Blackberry Chocolate Cake

Dark Chocolate and Brownies

In the world of chocolate, there are many ingredients that you may pair with it not only in truffles, bonbons and chocolate bars, but also in cooking, baking and dipping.  There are five primary classifications for food pairing with chocolate.  They are vanilla, nuts, fruits, spices, and spirits and wine.  The chocolate with these ingredients compliment each other.  The chocolate compliments the ingredients and the ingredients compliment the chocolate.

Vanilla Beans

When pairing vanilla with chocolate, you may use Bourbon or Tahitian vanilla.  Vanilla may be added to chocolate couverture or used in the centers of bon bons, in truffles or any baked goods.  There  is a synthetic form of vanilla called vanillin which is not recommended.  It is made from the sap of a pine tree and has a terrible aftertaste.  It is frequently used in commercial, mass produced chocolate bars as it is significantly less expensive that pure vanilla.  If vanilla is used as the primary flavor, only dark chocolate should be used.  If using vanilla as additional flavoring, it may be added to milk chocolate too.  Vanilla is wonderful in dark chocolate truffles, chocolate cake and added to hot chocolate.

Nuts

There are a wide variety of nuts including almonds, hazelnuts, macadamia nuts, peanuts, pistachios and walnuts to name a few.  They are used with chocolate in bon bons, marzipan, pralines, chocolate bars and baked goods. Nuts may be paired with milk or dark chocolate.  When using marzipan, it is best paired with very dark chocolate and pralines are best with milk chocolate.   The United State’s favorite nut is the peanut with chocolate and Europe’s number one flavor is hazelnut with chocolate.

Fruits

Most all fruits can be paired with chocolate.  The most popular are mangoes, strawberries, oranges, raspberries, blackberries and cherries.  Fruit is fantastic in chocolate baked goods as well as being used as a garnish. Fruits are also amazing as a flavor added to chocolate bars, in centers of bon bons or to enhance truffles.  Fruit often accompanies chocolate fondue.

Spices

Some of the common spices used with chocolate are ginger, anise, chilies, cinnamon and pepper.  These spices may be used in chocolate bars, for bon bon fillings, in truffles, added to baked goods and as a garnish.  Crystallized ginger is often dipped in dark chocolate for a wonderful taste explosion.  Spices work best with dark chocolate, although more and more chocolatiers are started to find fabulous combinations that work with milk chocolate.  In baking, all spices work particularly well.  Anise, cinnamon and chilies have been used in a hot chocolate drink since the Aztecs and Mayans invented it.

Spirits and Wines

Spirits and wines are becoming more and more popular when making chocolate, conducting tastings and pairings, and in cooking.  Some of the more popular spirits used with chocolate are sherry, brandy, cognac and rum. More recently, red wine, dessert wine, white wine and champagnes are being added to chocolate.  Chocolate and beers/ales have become in fashion over the past year.  Spirits and wines are great for use in chocolate desserts, in bon bon centers and in truffles.  They work equally as well with both milk and dark chocolate.

Although these are the more common pairings of ingredients with both milk and dark chocolate, chocolatiers and pastry chefs are constantly testing our palates to bring us more unusual and unique flavor combinations.  It is always nice to think out of the box and try new things.  Who knows what you might be missing!

Blackberry Chocolate Cake

Serves 12

Ingredients:
1 1/2 cup flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1 teaspoon allspice
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
3/4 cup buttermilk
2 tablespoons apple juice
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1/3 cup + 2 teaspoons butter, room temperature (reason for odd amount  is  the original recipe called for Crisco at 1/3 cup which you may still use if you’d like)
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup brown sugar
3 eggs, separated
1/2 cup blackberry jam
2 ounces dark chocolate, melted
1 cup raisins (I used dried, unsweetened mixed berries.)
1/2 cup nuts, chopped (I used walnuts.)

Directions:
Mix flour, soda, salt and spices; set aside. Mix milk and juice. Cream butter, beat in sugars until fluffy. Add egg yolks and beat well. Add vanilla. Add flour mixture alternately with milk mixture. Beat after each addition. Fold in jam, nuts and raisins; also fold in cooled chocolate.

Beat egg whites to peaks, then fold mixture into beaten egg whites. Bake in greased and floured 10-inch bundt pan at 350 degrees for 55-60 minutes.

Serve with whipped cream and fresh blackberries or as shown in photo heat up blackberry jam and slowly add powdered sugar until you get the consistency you want and pour over the cooled cake.

Blackberry Chocolate Cake

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Charles Chocolates Chocolate & Tea Tasting, and No-Bake Chocolate Hazelnut Biscuit Cake

Charles Chocolates Fleur de Sel Caramel Edible Box

Did you miss me yesterday?  I had lots of errands to do.  By the time I got home, it was time for the Charles Chocolates and Samovar Tea Lounge online and live chocolate and tea tasting event.  At that point, I figure it just best to skip the post yesterday.  Here I am today though!

Charles Chocolates Salty-Sweet Cashew Bar

The  Charles Chocolates and Samovar Tea Lounge chocolate and tea tasting was really interesting.  I’ve watched beer and chocolate tastings as well as wine and chocolate tastings before.  I have even conducted chocolate tastings for my own classes.  This was a first though.  What did you think?  If you didn’t get a chance to watch it live, here’s the video…

Charles Chocolates Triple Chocolate Hazelnuts

Charles Chocolates produces some really great chocolates.  Need some ideas of what to try?  Some of my favorites are the Fleur de Sel Caramel Edible Chocolate Box, the Triple Chocolate Hazelnuts, the Salty-Sweet Cashew Chocolate Bar and the Ginger Chocolate Bar.  All excellent choices!  FYI…They also offer a great chocolate bar selection offering an assortment of five different chocolate bars so you don’t have to pick just one!  Treat yourself!  You only live once.

I found this recipe a few weeks ago on a blog called The Stone Soup.  My friend and I were looking for something easy, yet elegant looking for her young budding chefs to make for a dinner party.  This fit the bill.  It’s even no-bake!  We found biscuits (cookies) in out local grocer that stocks lots of European items.  The had the biscuits available in vanilla or chocolate.  They weren’t the same brand, but they don’t have to be.  I think you could even get a similar look using lady fingers or vanilla wafers, although you would need more than three piles of cookie stacks to make the log.  It is gorgeous and elegant.  Looks like it came form the local pastisserie! It reminds me so much of theholiday yule log, but without all the work.  I’m sure you could dress it up properly over the holidays too!

Chocolate Hazelnut Biscuit Cake (Photo Courtesy of the Stone Soup)

Chocolate Hazelnut Biscuit Cake

Serves 10

Ingredients:
1 cup cream
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
250g (1/2 lb) Mascarpone
1 packet (250g or 1/2lb) Arnott’s Chocolate Ripple biscuits
250grams (1/2lb) dark chocolate (70% or higher cocoa content), broken into chunks
½ cup cream
small pinch sea salt
1 egg yolk, optional
60g (2 oz) hazelnuts, peeled, roasted & coarsely chopped

Directions:
Whip 1 cup cream until soft peaks form, you don’t want it to be too firmly whipped as the thick Mascarpone will thicken things up. Stir through vanilla and Mascarpone. Take a biscuit and spread with a thin layer of cream mixture on the top side. Place on a work surface cream side up then repeat with another biscuit and stack it on top of the first. Repeat until all the biscuits are used and you have made three stacks.

Take a long serving platter and lay biscuit logs on it to create on big log. Cover as evenly as possible with remaining cream mixture and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, bring the ½ cup cream to a simmer in a medium saucepan. Remove from the heat and add chocolate chunks and stir until chocolate is melted and smooth. If the mixture starts to separate, whisk through the egg yolk. Allow chocolate to cool until still runny but not hot enough to melt the cream.

Remove log from the fridge and scatter hazelnuts over the top. Drizzle over chocolate and return to the fridge for at least 2 hours or overnight. To serve remove from the fridge and slice on an angle so you get the striped ’surprise’ effect with the biscuits.

Chocolate Hazelnut Biscuit Cake (Photo Courtesy of the Stone Soup)

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Chocolate Lasagna and Guy Ritchie, Chocolate Beer and Cocoa Beer Icing Issue

I’m not sure why it keeps happening as it has never happened before, but the link and the post keep mysteriously breaking for Guy Ritchie and Cocoa Beer Icing.  It’s gone yet a second time.  It’s quite odd.  I wonder if it’s Guy Ritchie or the combo of beer and cocoa that the food goods don’t care for. If you would like the recipe for the Cocoa Beer Icing, please contact me.

Today is National Lasagna Day.  I bring you a new Chocolate Lasagna Recipe for dessert.  the last one I gave you had some issues as I made changes as I went and must have omitted something.  In the archives, you will find a delicious savory recipe that has our beloved Theobroma cacao present.

Chocolate Lasagna

Serves 8

Ingredients:
1 box lasagna noodles, cooked, drained and dried
4 cups whole milk ricotta cheese
2 cups heavy cream
6 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon grated orange rind
2 tablespoons Grand Marnier
1 pinch sea salt
12 ounces dark chocolate, chopped

Directions:
Preheat oven to 425°F with the rack in the upper third of the oven. In a large bowl, beat ricotta cheese and heavy cream. Add sugar, orange rind, Grand Marnier and salt. Generously butter an 8x11x2-inch pan. Alternate layers of noodles with cheese filling and chocolate, ending with a cheese layer. (Note: Do not put chocolate on the top layer.) Bake for 20 minutes until the top is lightly colored. Let the lasagna stand for 10 minutes. Serve.

Sorry, but I don’t have any photos for this one! But here’s a nice one to keep you going until tomorrow! Wouldn’t it be nice to walk into a chocolate shop and buy a chocolate bar seeing what it looks like first?  It’s like a chocolate bakery! I’ll look in to this place for us…it’s Swiss.

Swiss Chocolate Bars (Photo Courtesy of jynus)

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Seth Ellis Organic Chocolates and Cocoa Nib Vinaigrette

Today I’m enjoying some dark chocolate covered cocoa nibs from Vintage Plantations while I write. I always try to eat something chocolate while I write for not only inspiration, but in hope you will receive the chocolate goodness via osmosis.  I have two very fun things to offer offer you this fine day.  One is the work of an organic chocolatier I found in Boulder, Colorado.  It’s fairly easy these days to find organic chocolate bars, but not handcrafted chocolates (aka bon bons or pralines).  These are even USDA certified organic which means all of the ingredients are organic.  A rarity.  The otherhing I want to share is for your salad.  Salad?  Chocolate?  Yes.  Cocoa and chocolate in their full force by nature are acid and bitter, not sweet.  Unsweetened cocoa powder, dark chocolate over 70% (I prefer 80% and up) and cocoa nibs (see dictionary) are great to cook savory dishes.  This recipe is for a Cocoa Nib Vinaigrette and it’s from the website Cooking with Tom.  Please keep in mind that you will NOT be using chocolate covered cocoa nibs, just plain cocoa nibs. I also have  a salad dressing recipe using cocoa, but that’s for another day.

Cocoa Nibs

Now about Seth Ellis Chocolatier…Seth Ellis Chocolatier is located in Boulder, Colorado.  Boulder is known for what I love to call Earthy crunchy in the best sense of the term.  People are laid back, offer kindness and provide foods that are from the Earth.  Seth Ellis Chocolate is a small batch chocolate maker that produces only organic chocolate products.  100% USDA certified organic.  Every single ingredient.  The chocolate and sugar are both fair trade.  The other nice thing? Their production facilities are completely nut free.  That’s right! Those of you with nut allergies are completely safe eating anything made by them.  Completely gluten free too! Even better? You mean there’s more?  Yes, there is.  The box is manufactured and printed using wind power.  I love these people!

I have to tell you that the Sunflower Cups were exceptional.  I was a little leery being a peanut butter cup lover, but as promised, they are nut free.  The really nice thing is they offer the Sunflower Cups in both milk and dark chocolate.  They are a nice size too. Two in a package and about the same size as Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups.  I loved the milk chocolate ones.  I adored the Dark Chocolate Sunflower Cups.  The chocolates in both were smooth and creamy.  The dark chocolate was nice and glossy.  The sunflower filling was creamy and rich.  Neither of them was too sweet. I wouldn’t change a thing.

Seth Ellis Chocolate Box

Ginger by Seth Ellis Chocolatier

Honestly, I was a little worried about what was on the inside of the chocolate box before I opened it. Why? You know I love packaging. This was a bit commercial, but I did love the colors and the graphics.  But alas, you slide off that wrapper and you have a gorgeous black box opening to a lovely seal over tissue paper. I took a breath when I broke the seal.  A box full of gorgeous!  They do have an expiration tag on the back.  No preservatives means limited shelf life.  Their expiration sticker says ” Don’t hoard! Best by (date)”  I love it!

Caramel Nutmeg by Seth Ellis Chocolatier

Inside, ah inside.  The nice thing is you have a selection of two of everything in the box, so even if you share, you can taste one of everything which you should!  I do want to note that they call their creations truffles (see dictionary), which they aren’t in the traditional sense.  In true tradition, they are bon bons, pralines or simply chocolates.  Inside the box there was a selection of coffee, milk chocolate, raspberry, nutmeg caramel, ginger, dark chocolate, candied lemon, blueberry and mint.  My favorites?  Surprisingly, I loved the candied lemon.  Not a fan of candied fruit, but this was covered in dark chocolate and

Candied Lemon by Seth Ellis Chocolatier

had a light denseness about it that even made my teeth happy that they could be involved in this tasting.  The lemon was neither too tart, nor too sweet.  Perfection.  The ginger was covered in a dark chocolate and had a nice bite to it.  The caramel was a nice consistency, not to thick nor too runny.  The surprise with that one was notes of nutmeg at the finish.  My very favorite was the blueberry.  She towered in the box like…well, a little tower.  There was no question this was blueberry.  They tasted like they had just been picked and the dark chocolate covering put it over the top.

Right now you cannot purchase Seth Ellis Chocolatier Handcrafted Organic Chocolates on their website, but they are available for sale online at It’s Only Natural Gifts. The chocolates are also sold in many Boulder shops including Whole Foods stores, Ozo Coffee, Brewing Market and Glacier Ice cream in Longmont.  You have to true these chocolates. Order some for hostess gifts too!

Cocoa Nib Vinaigrette

Ingredients:

1 finely minced shallot
1 cup of balsamic vinegar, reduced to 1/4th cup
2 Tbs Cocoa Nibs (plain)
1 Tbs Honey
1/4 cup rosemary/garlic infused olive oil (see recipe and note below)
Salt to Taste

Directions:

Add shallot to a lightly oiled hot fry pan and cook till tender. Add cooked shallot, balsamic vinegar reduction, cocoa nibs, and honey to a food processor. While food processor is running, slowly drizzle olive oil into the processor. Add salt to taste.

Rosemary/Garlic infused Olive Oil for Cocoa Nib Vinaigrette

Ingredients:

3/4 cup olive oil
6″ stalk of fresh rosemary, cut into 1″ segments
3 cloves of peeled garlic

Directions:

Add all ingredients to an oven safe vessel, narrow enough to submerge garlic and olive oil. Place in a 200 F oven for approximately one hour. (I use a tall/narrow measuring cup) Remove from oven, leave rosemary and garlic in oil, cover and use the next day.

(You can also buy an herb infused olive oil and use that instead to make life cooler over the summer.)

Mixed Greens with Cocoa Nib Vinaigrette

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New Tree Chocolate

I used to buy the little sample boxes of New Tree Chocolate at the Whole Foods flagship in Austin, Texas when I lived there.  It was a nice little treat and you know how I love packaging!  Oddly enough, I could never decide whether I really liked them or not.  Well, since I moved back to Chicago I haven’t been able to find New Tree anywhere.  For my birthday, my brother bought me two New Tree chocolate bars.  You might remember me writing about them.  They were the Thyme and the Piment (pepper) Alpha Chocolate Bars.  Well, I’m honest.  I didn’t care for them in any way.  The people at New Tree read the post about their chocolate and wanted me to give it another go.  As I always say, you should try things twice just to make sure.  Well, they sent me two of their chocolate lines to sample. How excited was I?

Let me tell you a bit about New Tree chocolate first. In 2001, a biochemical engineer wanted to bring what nature had to offer in the way of flavor and health benefits to chocolate.  The result?  New Tree – Natural Born Chocolate.  Their goal?  To make “chocolates that draw their originality from the very heart of nature, combining gastronomy, innovation and well-being.” New Tree’s goal was met and within a matter of a few years, they were winning awards for their chocolate bars throughout the world.

Since I received so many chocolate bars from them, I’m going to talk about more of each line as a whole.  I’m a big fan of basic, good quality chocolate.  Not to say that it shouldn’t be or can’t be added to and enhanced.  It can, but it has to be subtle or it takes over the chocolate.  I’m looking for pure chocolate and pure ingredients.   New Tree sent me two dark chocolate bars.  One is called Eternity that is Blackcurrant and the other Pleasure which is simply dark chocolate.  I loved, loved, loved the Blackcurrant.  The added flavors are a bit too strong with New Tree and I’ll talk about that in a minute. There was no doubt as to what I was eating, it was black currant flavored chocolate and it was yummy.  The bar was beautiful, shiny and purplish-brown color.  The purple is not from the blackcurrant, but it is from the color of the cocoa beans.  The Blackcurrant bar also has added grape seed extract for more antioxidant properties than offered by this 73% chocolate bar. The Pleasure dark chocolate bar was fantastic.  I wouldn’t change a thing about the bar.  This chocolate bar had a fantastic sheen, great color, strong snap and smelled like a bouquet of flowers and fruit.  It was my favorite of the bunch.

For the New Tree milk chocolate, I received Cocoon which was Apricot and Tranquility which was Lavender.  I liked the Apricot.  They Lavender was too overwhelming.  I couldn’t eat it. Lavender should be used subtlety in chocolate. When all you smell and taste in a chocolate bar is lavender, I have to put it down.

Here’s what I don’t care for about New Tree. I love the concept, love the packaging, but I think a point comes where chocolate isn’t chocolate anymore and it becomes a confection or an energy bar.  For a chocolate confection or energy bar, I think New Tree is top notch, but I want to be able to smell my chocolate, not what has been added to it.  I want to taste my chocolate, not have it be an after thought.  With the Blackcurrant chocolate bar, you have sulfites from the natural grape extract which I question. You can buy grape extract with no sulfites.  The ingredients also list “other natural flavor” which I told you to watch out for before.  The Apricot also added natural soy germ extract and other natural flavorings.  The Lavender, lime blossom extract.

New Tree has also created a line of chocolate bars that boasts three times the fiber, 30% less sugar and a good source of Omega-3s from the addition of flax seeds.  I shared these with a few tasting buddies, because I like to make sure I’m on the mark.  We reviewed the Belgian Biscuit 65%, Dark 65%, Dark 65% Superfruit.  We really liked all of these bars.  They didn’t bring to mind a chocolate bar though, we all thought they were more of an energy bar with all of the additions.  Which is fine.  The amount of cranberries, goji berries, pomegranate, grape and papaya in the Superfruit was staggering in a good way.  There was not doubt a lot of fruit in it. Problem? If you’re making a healthy chocolate bar, why are you using 65% chocolate?  Every study that has been done says that you have to have at least 70% cocoa for health benefits. The basic part of the dark chocolate is healthy wasn’t met.

New Tree Chocolate Belgian Biscuit Bar (Small Size)

The other bars we reviewed were tasty, but we ran into some huge issues.  Seems the 31-51% bars all caused stomach cramping and diarrhea in all of us. New Tree said it wasn’t their bars.  Considering we tried them on two separate occasions, I’m pretty sure they were the cause.  The problem?  They add inulin, oligofructose and dextrin to the bars.  If you have any stomach, ulcer,  or digestive issues, my research shows it is strongly recommended that you don’t consume these substances because it causes the exact symptoms we had, which we all suffer from one of the three.

Overall review.  I really respect New Tree for what they are trying to do.  I understand they have won awards and I think they are deserved as they are pioneers in a newly emerging market in the chocolate world.  For me?  Not so much.  I like their plain dark chocolate bar. I like the Blackcurrant and the Apricot, although I really couldn’t appreciate the chocolate because there was so much flavor added to the chocolat bar.  For New Tree’s suped-up 3x more fiber, 30% less sugar and Omega-3 line, I loved them all as a chocolate confection or energy bar.  In my opinion, they have way too much going on to be considered chocolate.  What would I buy again?  The Dark Chocolate, the suped-up Superfruit and the Dark 65%.  Overall, not a fan. You decide and if you feel any differently, let me know and I’ll try again.

New Tree Chocolate

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Vintage Plantations Chocolate: Part Two

Vintage Plantations 65% Baking Chocolate

A few weeks ago I presented you with information about Vintage Plantations Chocolate.  They sent me their entire line to sample, so even I couldn’t do it over a short period of time.  I had to spread the tastings out.  Needless to say, all of their chocolate bars were outstanding!  The box of dark chocolate covered cocoa nibs that I reported as being divine are still in abundance.  You only need a few to satisfy the chocolate urge.

Vintage Plantations Assorted Chocolate Truffle Box

Some more tidbits about Vintage Plantations Chocolate before we start. They now make truffles too!  Make sure you are willing to share though.  One box has 72 pieces at $81.  Personally, I’d go for the assortment.  You really need to try them all. They also offer the box of 72  in a chocolate hearts variety.  These would be great for not only Valentine’s day, but for engagement parties, rehearsal dinner gifts, wedding favors and for the sweets table at the wedding.  Pierrick must know something about love too!  Also note, for Valentine’s day they offer more options.

Vintage Plantations Dark Chocolate Frogs

Cute other new additions are the Chocolate Frogs.  The kids will love them!  They come in dark, white or milk chocolate and you get 24 for $41.  For those of you that use cocoa for baking or drinking, don’t forget to check out their cocoa products.  They have a variety of baking chocolates and cocoa butter too.

Vintage Plantations Chocolate Heart Truffles

On our agenda today are the following Vintage Plantations chocolate bars:  Chocolate Latte Mocha, 65% Dark Chocolate, 75% Dark Chocolate with Shredded Coconut, 75% Dark Chocolate with Macadamia Nuts and the 100% Dark Chocolate.  Don’t forget that all of Vintage Plantations Chocolate products all come from Ecuador and are Rainforest Alliance Certified.

Vintage Plantations Instant Chocolate Drink

Vintage Plantations Chocolate Latte Mocha: This bar is 38% milk chocolate.  Ingredients-cocoa, ground espresso coffee, cane sugar, whole milk powder, soy lecithin and instant coffee.  You could smell the richness of the coffee, chocolate and milk as soon as the wrapper was opened. I felt like I was in a coffeehouse.  I was expecting a lighter colored bar when I opened this one up because of the milk, but the color was pretty dark for a milk chocolate bar.  This bar has an incredible blend of tastes.  Not one over powers the other.  The balance is nice and the flavor lingers on the palate for quite awhile.  Quite nice.

Vintage Plantations Salted Caramel Chocolate Truffle

The 65% Dark chocolate bar pleasantly surprised me.  As my palate for chocolate has developed, I have found it hard to eat anything between 45-70%.  It’s odd. I know. It seems my taste buds like it extreme.  Either give me lots of milk and sugar, or give me chocolate with just a few specks of sugar.  This 65% bar was dark, not sweet and incredibly smooth.  The chocolate was a nice dark reddish purple brown.  Beautiful.  Nice sharp snap.  Only has pure cocoa mass, raw sugar cane and soy lecithin.  When you open the wrapper, you get a burst of cocoa and floral scent.  Intoxicating.  The taste is exceptionally floral with a bit of a nuttiness at the end.  Smooth mouth feel and nice long finish.

Vintage Plantations Chocolate

I’m going to do the 75% Dark Macadamia Nuts and Shredded Coconut together.  These bars are identical except for their additions.  They both have cocoa mass and raw cane sugar.  The Macadamia Nuts have the nuts, of course, and salt.  The coconut only coconut.  For me, it’s difficult to do a tasting with bars having ingredients added.  I think my taste buds get confused.  Maybe it’s all the spicy food I eat and I don’t have many to work with!  As with the 65% bar, the notes are the same.  The surprise was the coconut.  It doesn’t saw the coconut is raw, but I felt that it was.  It was nice and light, not overpowering.  The Macadamia Nuts were plentiful and not crushed up.  I like to know it really is  macadamia nuts that I’m eating!  It was!

Vintage Plantations 75% Dark Chocolate Macadamia Nut

Now for my favorite.  It’s my first 100% Dark Chocolate bar.  I’ve had 99%, but 100%!  I took a photo, but it doesn’t do the color justice.  This bar is not for the beginner.  Compared to other 99% bars that I had tasted, this one had only a light bitterness to it rather than most of them I felt were both dry and extremely bitter.  It’s an acquired taste.  Maybe it’s the Arriba beans.  The color is gorgeous – almost a burnt red brown.  Nice heavy snap.  Floral notes bombarding your nose.  It takes a long time to melt on your tongue, but well worth the wait.  The chocolate starts with floral note and finishes with a strong, but not too strong note of nuts and a nice roasted flavor.  The finish stayed with me for hours.  Literary. I didn’t want to drink anything to remove the ecstasy my taste buds were experiencing.  I think they’re still made at me! Ingredients?  Pure cocoa mass.  This is what chocolate tasting is all about.  Give it a try.  Don’t be shy.  Make sure you don’t eat more than a few squares at a time.  Appreciate the bar over a period of time.  Mine lasted for two weeks.

Well, it took awhile, but we’re finally done with Vintage Plantations Chocolate.  If you have any questions for me or for them, let us know.  They are a great bunch.  I am too!

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Vintage Plantations Chocolate: Part One Green and Chocolate

Theobroma cacao

I recently mentioned Vintage Plantations in one of my posts.  They found out about it and thought I should try their entire line!  Wow!  Thank you!  Sincerely.  Let me tell you a bit about Vintage Plantations and why I have not only mentioned them a few times in the past, but why they are also in the recommended chocolate bar list to the left to help you when buying your 70% or higher cocoa content chocolate bars.  This is part one because a girl can only eat so much chocolate!  I’m actually munching on a bowl of their Chocolate Covered Cocoa Nibs as I write.  They’re not only good for you, but the crunch is nice when you’re on a deadline to quash that anxiety!

Pierrick Chouard

Vintage Plantations started their business in 1993.  The founders Pierrick Chouard and  Allan Suarez saw a decline in what was happening in the world of chocolate from bean to bar and wanted to make a difference.  Pierrick went to work by meeting with the farmers because that’s where it all starts.  After working with the farmer’s for three years, Pierrick found a problem. He realized the farmer’s were losing out to the middlemen in the cocoa bean trade. If the farmer’s didn’t work with them, they had no way to make a living selling their cocoa beans. They had no choice. Pierrick started to raise funds for a village of cocoa farmers in the Dominican Republic. With the help of the Rainforest Alliance and a local NGO, the cocoa farmers had help to market their cocoa directly to chocolate makers. The Rainforest Alliance asked Vintage Plantations to become part of their Cocoa Program and they moved Vintage Plantations to Ecuador where their cocoa is both harvested and processed.

Rainforest Alliance

Their mission is to support small farmers, protect the environment, make sure the cocoa beans are free of chemicals, work with entities who will work with the Rainforest Alliance, minimize their carbon footprint and create amazing chocolate. It has taken nine years for Pierrick and Allan to get everything just right between farmers and the cocoa trade, but they went from offering a few select bars to a full line of exciting chocolate products. Not only do they currently produce 13 different chocolate bars, they also make truffles, chocolate covered cocoa nibs, and baking products for both the home and professional chef.  I also have to note that you should snatch these chocolate bars up because I think the prices are incredibly low for the quality you’re getting.

Vintage Plantations Chocolate Covered Cocoa Nibs

I love chocolate covered cocoa nibs.  They used to be so hard to find and I am quite thankful they have become more attainable.  I was delighted to find a 9 oz box of them in my gigantic package from Pierrick.  This is the family size.  Family of one in my case.  As I am making my way through the box, I have to say that these really are the heart of the cocoa bean.  For those of you that do not know what a cocoa nib is, it is the broken pieces of the cocoa bean.  They are roasted, then shelled and take dip in a nice big pool of dark chocolate.  Sounds like a nice life!  I eat them just as they are, but you can also put them on ice cream, in your cereal, in your yogurt and I really love them in dark chocolate chunk cookies instead of nuts.  The fun thing is that they are all different sizes.  I like to eat the big ones first and save the small ones for last.  Who knows my thinking behind this?  I surely don’t. Important information about the Chocolat Covered Cocoa Nibs are they are vegan, gluten free, no soy, no flavor added, no chemicals and Rainforest Alliance certified. $6.25

Pink Sea Salt

Today we’re going to do three of their chocolate bars.  Let me start out by saying one reason Vintage Plantations Chocolate is one of my favorite chocolate makers is that do not add vanilla.  None of the dark bars contain soy lecithin either.  The use undeodorized cocoa butter for an emulsifer.  I’ll tell you the ingredients bar by bar.  The first bar I tried last week was the Vintage Plantations Milk Crystal Salt bar.  Why first?  You know I’m a packaging junkie.  I loved the little pink sea salt crystals on the front on the box.  The cocoa content is 38% and the ingredients are cocoa mass, cane sugar, whole milk powder, undeodorized cocoa butter, coarse evaporated sea salt and cocoa powder.  Vintage Plantations is one of the chocolate makers going back to using whole milk powder.  This is the way chocolate bars were originally made – with whole milk.  This bar was incredibly smooth.  It melted on your tongue and filled your mouth with creaminess.  The sea salt was a nice touch.  The crystals were quite tiny.  They were a nice addiction to the bar in that the sea salt balanced the taste of the chocolate.  The sea salt was not added to the chocolate, it enhanced it. $3.95

Vintage Plantations Crunchy Almond Cream

Next is the Vintage Plantations Crunchy Almond Cream.  This was amazing.  It has 38% cocoa content and I was so surprised when I bit into it that I had to turn the box around and read the ingredients.  No, not just toasted almond slivers, but almond paste too!  Wahoo!  It was crunchy, smooth and perfect for the marzipan lover (see yesterday’s post)! The other thing I really enjoyed about this bar was there was some acidity to it.  This is not something that you usually find in a milk chocolate bar.  Ingredients are cocoa mass, cane sugar, whole milk powder, undeodorized cocoa butter, almond paste, almond slivers, soy lecithin. $3.95

Last on our list today is the Vintage Planations 90% Dark.  This is what Vintage Plantations is really known for producing.  For those of you that don’t care for dark chocolate or are working your way up to a higher cocoa content, Vintage Plantations’s dark chocolate bars are the way to go.  I’m not sure how they do it, but the acidity level and bitterness is minimal even at 90%.  Don’t get me wrong, there is still a nice sharp bite and an incredible intensity.  The color was nice and dark.  A great, strong snap.  There were definitely floral notes, although I couldn’t pinpoint which ones in particular.  Once the square was melting in my mouth, I noticed some berry notes that were rather subtle.  The finish was long and strong with cocoa and coffee.  It lingered for two hours until I had to eat dinner.  $3.95

Vintage Plantations has something for everyone whether you are a seasoned chocolate connoisseur, just starting out on your chocolate journey or have particular dietary needs.  Next week, look for my reviews on Vintage Plantations 65% Dark, 75% Dark Chocolate with Macadamia Nuts, 75% Dark Chocolate with Coconut, the Latte Mocha and I’m saving the one I’m looking th most forward to for last – the 100% Dark!

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Chocolate 101: Chocolate Tasting Notes

Pralus Chocolate Pyramid

Out of all the known foods in the world, chocolate is one of the most complex.  It is not surprising as scientist have detected over 500 different flavor components in chocolate.  Some of them say there are as many as 600!  Chocolate is slightly acidic, bitter, and also possesses an astringent quality.  A lot of the reasons for these properties in chocolate depend upon the roasting of the bean, however there are many other factors contributing to the flavors one experiences when eating chocolate.  The richness of chocolate’s flavor comes from the combination of the bean’s natural sugars and proteins and the way the enzymes break them down.  The way chocolate is prepared also depends upon how the flavors will evolve from the high heat and chemical activity.

Cocoa Pulp

When conducting your chocolate tasting at home please note that the naturally occurring flavors of chocolate can come from the bean itself.  These flavors result in the astringency and bitterness coming from the naturally occurring theobromine and phenolic compounds. From the fermented pulp’s esters, acids and alcohols, come flavors mimicking fruit, wine, sherry and vinegar.  Other chemical reactions create the almond, dairy and flower notes. The roasting brings forth an entirely different set of flavors that not only produce more bitterness to the chocolate, but also roasted, nutty, earthy, spicy and more flowery notes.

Fruit Notes

Although not an exhaustive list, there are eight different categories of notes to look for when tasting chocolate.  They are vegetable, flower, fruit, roasted, nut, spice, dairy and what I like to call “the kitchen sink” as it is a collect all for those notes without a proper home.  Some of the more particular notes you may experience in the vegetable category are mushrooms, green tomatoes and truffles.  In the flower family, jasmine, orange blossom and rose.  Fruit, which is the largest of the categories, you might experience apricot, currant, orange , plums, bananas, blueberry, strawberry, blackberry, raspberry, cherry, peach, apple, pineapple, fig, citrus, prune, sun-dried tomatoes or olive.  Among the roasted notes include cocoa nibs, cocoa powder,  caramel, roasted almonds, marzipan, coffee, black tea and tobacco.  Cashew, almond, hazelnut, macadamia nut, walnut, peanut and pumpkin seeds make up the nut and seed notes.  The spice notes might be considered a little unusual, but once you develop your palate you will be able to distinguish these notes as well.  They include licorice, cloves, cinnamon, oriental Spices, vanilla, green herbs, pepper, chillies and allspice. Dairy notes are very simple.  They are either cream or butter.  The kitchen sink, also called the miscellaneous category, contains notes of beeswax, bread, raw coffee, leather, fresh grass , mint, hay , wood, balsamic vinegar, barley malt, cocoa butter, honey, brown sugar, moss and molasses.  Again, keep in mind that these are naturally occurring notes in chocolate.  These are not added flavors.

Vanilla

Once the chocolate has gone through its basic creation, the chocolate maker may add flavors including sugar and vanilla which are not often taken into account when tasting.  They should be because they are causing a change in the palate when you taste the chocolate by creating sweetness and spiciness which were not there previously.  Not to long ago, salt was added to milk chocolate to balance the sugar flavor.  You do not see that in today’s milk chocolate.  Many chocolatiers are now adding sea salt to dark chocolate not to balance the sweetness, but to create a bite.

Roasted Cocoa Beans

When beans have gone bad, have been poorly fermented, or are over or under roasted, the result will show in the final chocolate bar. The results will be flavors resembling something that has been burnt, over smoked,  gone moldy, fishy or have the mouthfeel of cardboard or rancid food.

As you move along in learning about chocolate and develop your palate, expect to find yourself being able to identify more flavors.  Also note there is always a chance you may get a bad bar from a well-known and respected chocolatier.  It happens for a variety of reason, but most often only because the chocolate bar has exceeded its expiration date or perhaps your palate may have been tarnished that day by something you ate.  I always tell people to make sure you try everything twice.  Give it time, buy the chocolate bar a second time and give it a second go.  With time, tasting chocolate will become second nature to you, but do give it time.

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Valrhona Chocolate and Wine Pairing and Chocolate Punch

Valrhona Dark Chocolate Bar

I’ve been spending my entire weekend writing and missed a post yesterday.  Sorry about that.  I was lucky in that Valrhona must have known my plight and sent me something they thought would interest me.  Which of course made me think of you.  It’s about pairing chocolate and wine which, quite frankly, I know nothing about since I don’t drink anymore.  They have passed their knowledge to me and I now pass it on to you.  The Chocolate Punch is their recipe as well.  I have to say it sounds like it would be delicious spooned over a nice dish of homemade ice cream.  If you want to make it for the kiddies to enjoy too, you can omit the rum and add a rum flavoring or another flavoring of your choice.  I think hazelnut or almond would be nice.  Read, learn and enjoy the rest of your weekend.

Wine and Chocolate Pairing

When pairing wine with chocolate is a research project for both oenophiles and chocoholics. Everyone’s flavor palate is different, but there area few good parameters to follow:

Light, creamy and smooth chocolate (milk) should be paired with lighter bodied wines. Dark, rich and strong chocolate should be paired with full-bodied wines. These are only guidelines, not rules. Another important fact to remember is that the wine should be a little bit or more sweet than the chocolate; otherwise you will end up with a sour or bitter taste.

Here are pairing suggestions specifically designed for Valrhona’s Grand Crus:

Valrhona Tanariva 33%

TANARIVA 33%: Pure Madagascar. Balanced acidity softened by distinctive milk and caramel notes.

A light fruity Pinot Noir from Oregon or Sonoma melds with the milky caramel profile of this milk chocolate and brings out the fruitiness (cherry/raspberry) of the wine. One could also try a velvety rich Californian cabernet Sauvignon to really bring out the dark cherry and spice. If you prefer your wines sweet, try a ruby port (which hasn’t seen any oak — it’s bottled right after fermentation).

Valrhona Manjari 64%

MANJARI 64%: Pure Madagascar. Fresh, acidic, sharp bouquet with red fruit notes.

Here is a versatile pairing chocolate that works with both white and red wines. Manjari’s fresh, fruity notes pair well with a fruity, high acid Sauvignon Blanc from either California or New Zealand. The citrus flavors really shine here. One can also opt for the dessert style Rieslings from Washington state or Germany. For reds, go with a strong spicy Californian Zinfandel to soften the acidity of the chocolate; great combination.

Valrhona Tainori 64%

TAÏNORI 64%: Pure Dominican Republic. Flavors of yellow fruit follow in the wake of roast almond and freshly baked bread.

The nuttiness, hint of plum and citrus in Taïnori pairs perfectly with a lush, rich Central Coast Pinot Noir. The bright fruits of plum and cherry along with the spiciness melt together with the chocolate and make one’s mouth smile.

This chocolate is also a great pairing with Tawny Port because of the nuttiness both share.

Valrhona Caraibe 66%

CARAÏBE 66%: Flavor Profile: Aromatic and long finish reveals almond and delicate roasted flavors.

Here’s a chocolate that pairs with both warm and cooler climate Cabernet Sauvignon blends (California and Bordeaux). Caraïbe is all about roasted nuttiness, not fruit. A light earthy Bordeaux brings out this earthiness in the chocolate making them a great match. A mountain grown (Howell, St. Helena) Californian Cabernet Sauvignon would also make for a fine pairing with its more structure driven style of cassis and baking spices.

Valrhona Jivara 40%

JIVARA LAIT 40%: Milk chocolate with pronounced cocoa taste, notes of malt and vanilla.

A moderately oaked Merlot from the Napa Valley offers enough fruit of plum, cassis and dark cherry along with the vanilla to pair with the cocoa, malt and vanilla of this milk chocolate. Also try a dessert wine from Southern France named Banyuls. The Grenache based wine will show lots of dark fruit while enhancing the prominent cocoa flavor of the chocolate

Valrhona Alpaco 66%

ALPACO 66%: Pure Ecuador. Jasmine and orange blossom notes give way to a long finish of refined bitterness and woody flavors.

Here is and example of when a strong velvety cabernet sauvignon and a chocolate taste completely different on their own, but change dramatically when tasted together. The nutty bitterness of Alpaco melds with the high acid and tannins of a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Fruits of cherry and cranberry emerge along with the flavor of peanuts and almonds when the two are together. A Malmsey Madeira is also right at home here; sharing nutty character, while bringing out the fruity tang of the Madeira.

Valrhona Abinao 88%

ALBINAO 88%: Cocoa beans from Africa create powerful tannins with a strong, lingering intensity.

A full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon from Washington State or California works best here, but don’t forget to try a rich, spicy Zinfandel from California too. The strong tannic Abinao and these strong tannic wines become a creamy rich pairing where the cocoa becomes prominent. Currant and white pepper spice really show through, too.

Valrhona Guanaja 70%

GUANAJA 70%: Intense flavor, floral notes with an exceptionally long finish.

Bordeaux’s left bank (aka Cabernet Sauvignon based, with a good amount of Cabernet France and Merlot) is a perfect pairing here. This strong, nutty and fruity chocolate brings out the cassis and dark cherry of the wine. Guanaja’s mix of flavors blend well with Bordeaux’s blend of grapes. An Australian Shiraz/Grenache blend brings out a tangy yet creamy side of Guanaja. For the sweeter side, try a slightly sparkling Moscato d’Asti from the region of Piedmont in Italy. The citrus and peach driven fruit and bubbles pop their way into the fruit and nuttiness of the chocolate.

I hope you learned a lot!  I sure did.  now for the Chocolate Punch recipe also from Valrhona.

Chocolate Punch

A recipe from Valrhona’s École du Grand Chocolat

For 6 glasses

Ingredients:
9 ounces Valrhona milk chocolate Valrhona Le Lait 39% Baking Bar
28 ounces (3 ½ cups) coconut milk
7 ounces (less than 1 cup) sweetened condensed milk
4 ounces (½ cup) rum
3 vanilla beans

Directions:

In a microwave safe bowl, melt the chocolate in 30 seconds intervals (you can also melt it in a double boiler). In a pot heat, the coconut milk with the sweetened condensed milk. Pour a third of this mixture over the melted chocolate and mix rapidly with a spatula to create a shiny and thick texture. Same procedure for the other 2 third of the milk (in 3 parts like the mayonnaise). Once you get a shiny and thick texture add the rum.
Split the vanilla beans in half and scrape out the contents; add to the punch. Chill. Serve chilled over ice.  Garnish with a dash or stick of cinnamon and a dab of whipped cream.

Chocolate Punch by Valrhona

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Chocolate 101: Tasting Chocolate & Mast Brothers Chocolate

Chocolate 101

Throughout the year I conduct chocolate tastings at a few places around the Chicago area as well as for private parties.  People are always so excited that there is actually a procedure for tasting chocolate.  There is.  In fact, it is quite similar to wine tasting and even olive oil tasting, if you have attended one of those events.  I have also followed up with a video of the Mast Brothers bean to bar chocolate factory in Brooklyn.  They are one of a handful of bean to bar makers in the United States.  Again, back to basics.  I would love to see these pop up all over!

Pick at Least Two Dark Chocolate Bars

Again, we are getting back to basics.  How do you taste chocolate?  You should have at least two chocolate bars for your tasting.  I suggest the bars contain at least 70% cocoa content.  The reason for this is not only that I like to chat up the health benefits of dark chocolate, but when you have a purer chocolate, there is less to interfere with you palate.  Your tastebuds won’t have to worry about the dairy and the sugar.  There is less and less sugar as the cocoa content increases in a chocolate bar until you reached a 100% dark chocolate bar which will have absolutely no sugar in it.  (I actually have my first 100% bar sitting beside me for a tasting later on today.)

How to Conduct Your Own Chocolate Tasting
Setting the Mood

Glass Flat Water

Believe it or not, chocolate tasting is best done first thing in the morning when your tastebuds have not yet been compromised.  Just a nice gargle with some warm water. Do not brush your teeth or have anything to eat or drink.  If you conduct your tasting later in the day, make sure you do not have any strong flavored foods or beverages during the day.  Flat water and plain bread will cleanse your palate before you start as well as in between chocolate bars.
Your room should be quiet,  the temperature cool and the lighting subdued.  Have all of your chocolate bars in front of you, but only open each one as it is needed so your nose does not get confused.

Look at Your Chocolate

Sight

Open your first chocolate bar.  The bar should have an even, glossy and uniform surface. There should be a smooth shine, with no pitting or bloom.

Sound

Listen for the Snap

Grasp your chocolate bar and break a piece off.  This sound  is called snap. Snap indicates both a high cocoa content and that the chocolate has been tempered correctly. A milk chocolate bar will only offer a slight snap due to the milk and low cocoa content and the white, if of high quality, will have a very small snap.

Touch and Smell

Touch the Chocolate - Don't Really Squeeze It

It is said we eat with our eyes first.  The eyes are where taste begins and then aroma follows. Flavor of something is influenced by 75% smell and only 25% taste. The aroma of the chocolate depends where the cocoa beans were grown, the type of soil they were grown in and what was grown near it like coffee, fruit or nuts. There are hundreds of different aromas called notes.  You may also find notes when tasting such things as wine or olive oil.  These are not ingredients, although some may be added to the chocolate bar that you may smell and then taste.  Now rub your fingers across the bar. It should feel dry.  Now bring the chocolate bar to your nose and smell.

Taste

Taste Dark Chocolate - Just a Square Though

There are over 500 flavor components in chocolate, note the ones that come to you on first observation. Some of the notes have an aroma but not taste, some taste but no aroma. Some people notice some and others do not.  The more you taste and cleaner your palate, the easier it becomes to find the notes.   Put a square of chocolate on your tongue.   Let it slowly melt and dissolve.  Do not chew it. Notice the notes are in layers like perfume and wine. The first (top)  note, mid-palate and finish.  The finish can be short, long or anywhere in between.  Generally, the higher the quality of the chocolate bar and the higher the cocoa  content, the longer and more prominent the finish.

Mouthfeel

Chocolate Melting

What does the chocolate feel like when you put it in your mouth ? After you swallowed it? It should start to dissolve in your mouth immediately because chocolate melts just below body temperature.   The textures of the chocolate can be smooth or gritty (GOOD) or creamy or waxy feel (BAD – oil added).

The more you try different chocolate bars and the larger the variety in your collection, the more evolved your palate will become.  Don’t expect it all to come at once. It will take time.  All things worth learning take time!

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